Glossary of Italian pattern-making vocabulary

Pattern making and construction

Base (block / foundation pattern)

The fundamental pattern of a garment category (e.g. shirt block, jacket block) from which all the style variations of a collection are developed.

Modello (pattern)

The set of technical pieces that make up the garment: paper pattern of each part (front, back, sleeve, lining, interfacings) with seam allowances, notches and part codes.

Moulage (draping)

Couture technique of building the pattern by draping fabric directly on the dress form. Used for tailored and couture pieces, where the shape precedes the technical drawing.

Rilievo (pattern lifting)

The operation of transferring the measurements of an existing garment or a real body onto the flat pattern. Done with a tape measure or by tracing.

Sdifettamento (fit correction)

Correction of the block after the first toile. It involves rotating darts, rebalancing and adjusting fit before moving on to size grading.

Industrializzazione (industrialisation)

Conversion of a tailored pattern into a version that is constructively consistent with the timing and technology of serial production. It covers seam standardisation, fabric consumption optimisation and critical simplification.

Margini di cucitura (seam allowances)

Areas added to the pattern pieces beyond the finished line, to allow assembly. They vary by seam type (1 cm standard, 1.5–2 cm at side seams, 4 cm at hem turn-ups).

Tacche di riferimento (notches)

Small cuts or marks on the seam allowances that indicate alignment points between different pieces (e.g. undersleeve with front). Essential for correct assembly in production.

Sizing and fitting

Grading (sviluppo taglie) (size grading)

Construction of the other sizes starting from the base size, by applying proportional increments at specific points of the pattern. It is not a uniform mathematical scale: some areas grow more than others.

Taglia base (base size)

The reference size on which the first pattern is developed and the first prototype validated. Typically size 42 or 38 for women, 48 or 50 for men.

Curva di vestibilità (ease curve)

The progression of ease allowances over the body for each garment category. A shirt has a different curve from a coat, which has a different curve from a down jacket.

Fitting (fitting session)

Session during which the prototyped garment is tried on a dress form and/or a live fit model. Static fit, fit in movement, balance, proportions and construction details are checked. It closes with a written technical report.

Toile (toile / muslin)

Prototype in raw calico (toile fabric) used to check construction and fit without the cost of the final fabric. Standard for tailored garments and initial validations.

Ease (wearing ease)

The difference between the body measurement and the finished garment measurement. It is the "comfort" of the garment, calculated in centimetres per body zone (chest, waist, hips).

Prototype and production

Prototipo (prototype)

First garment made in the final fabric. It is the moment when the pattern moves from the flat (digital or paper) to real volume.

Campione (sample / sales sample)

Final garment, ready to be shown to clients, buyers or press. Distinct from the prototype because it has already been validated in fitting.

Scheda tecnica (technical specification)

Operational document that accompanies the pattern: measurements, materials, trims, assembly sequence, finishings, tolerances. It is the facon's "instruction manual".

Piazzamento (marker) (marker making)

Layout of all the pieces of one or more sizes on the fabric, optimised to minimise waste. It takes into account grain direction, napped fabrics, prints and checks.

Consumo (fabric consumption)

Quantity of fabric needed to produce one garment, expressed in linear metres per size. It is calculated from the marker.

Facon (contract manufacturer)

Specialised external make-up workshop. In Italy the term identifies a contract producer, distinct from the cutting room and the finishing operations.

Campionatura (sampling)

Phase of developing the collection samples, generally in small numbers, for internal presentations, buyer showrooms or runway shows.

CAD and files

CAD modellistico (pattern CAD software)

Industrial software for the construction, grading and marker making of patterns in digital form. The main systems are Lectra, Optitex, Gerber and StyleCAD.

DXF (DXF exchange format)

Universal exchange format for vector files, supported by all industrial CAD systems and automatic cutting machines. The de-facto standard for inter-software delivery.

Lectra Modaris (French pattern CAD)

French pattern-making CAD software, the historic leader in the European luxury market. Standard in many Parisian maisons.

Optitex (Israeli pattern CAD)

Israeli pattern-making CAD software, used for 2D construction, grading and marker making, valued for its versatility and DXF compatibility.

Outerwear, down jackets and technical garments

Impiuntura (topstitching)

Visible decorative or structural stitching, parallel to edges or construction lines, used on outerwear, jeans and sportswear.

Canalizzazione (piumini) (down chamber stitching)

System of stitch lines that divides the down jacket into closed chambers containing the filling. The geometry, size and density of the chambers determine the thermal performance and the look of the garment.

Cuciture termosaldate (heat-sealed seams)

Needle-free closure technique using heat-activated adhesive tapes. It guarantees full waterproofing along the seams of technical outdoor and performance garments.

Performance fabric (technical fabric)

Technical fabric with declared performance: water repellence, breathability, windproofing, four-way stretch. Its physical properties require pattern making adapted to them.

Fodera mobile (floating lining)

Construction in which the outerwear lining is not fixed at every point, but free to move so as to ensure optimal fit and durability. Standard in Italian tailoring.

Bavero (lapel / collar facing)

The visible side of the outerwear collar when it is folded back. Its construction (notched, peaked, step, shawl) defines the style of the coat or jacket.

Heritage modellistico (pattern heritage / archive)

The historical archive of patterns and technical sheets of a brand, kept for future re-editions, limited editions or technical reference. Often stored on physical card stock and today digitisable in CAD.