Atelier ModArch
Industrial pattern making · Botticino (BS)
A technical resource for the product office
The brief checklist for an outerwear piece.
14 points your pattern maker needs to know before starting.
Most prototyping iterations on a technical outerwear piece originate from missing information in the initial brief. Not from wrong choices — from choices that were never communicated. This checklist is the working document we use at Atelier ModArch to set up every new project. Print it and keep it next to the fashion sketch.
Garment identity
- Exact garment type E.g. women's down jacket, 12 channels, knee length
- Visual and technical references Fashion sketch + 2-3 concept images + a guide garment if available
- The garment's position in the collection Top of the range, capsule, seasonal basic
- Gender, target age, body type Women 30-45, slim oversize, a couple of target countries
Construction
- Outer fabric and all linings Composition, weight, stretch, finish, supplier
- Insulation 90/10 down, high-loft synthetic, weight, certification
- Trims and components Zips, buttons, cords, any watertight zips / heat-sealed tapes
- Desired volume and silhouette Fitted / oversize / A-line / tube - with references
Sizes and fit
- Base size to start from Standard women's 42, standard men's 50, or other
- Full size range XS-XL / 36-48 / custom
- Reference measurement chart The brand's internal chart, not the generic standard
- Any intentional construction asymmetries Off-axis pockets, deconstructed cuts, etc.
Operations
- The manufacturer's CAD software Lectra Modaris / Optitex / Gerber / universal DXF
- Delivery calendar Hard deadline for prototype-ready and production-ready
The 5 questions that eliminate most iterations
- Should the lapel open shawl-style or peaked?
- Is the lining free-hanging or attached at every point?
- Are the internal drawcords visible from the outside?
- Is the hem raw, topstitched or taped?
- Is the insulation stitched to the channel or floating?